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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.